How To Shape Your Eyebrows Like a Pro!

Every makeup artist I have ever spoken to says eyebrows are the most important facial feature. All angles of the face are determined by the brows: they can lift the eyes; narrow or widen the face. While there are a lot of opportunities here, it is important to let your natural shape be your guide. It is probably close to optimal for your face and anything too drastic can look unnatural. Here are some techniques from our team of fabulous makeup artist educators.

Basic Eyebrow Shaping Techniques

  • The inner edge of the brow should line up with the outside of the corresponding nostril (A).
  • The highest point of the arch should be just at the outer edge of the eyeball. (B)
  • The outer brow should taper off to a point that intersects with an imaginary line drawn from the outer nostril past the outer edge of the eye (C), and you thought geometry wouldn’t be useful later in life! It sounds complicated but just follow the drawing.

Basic Eyebrow Shaping Techniques on diagram of cartoon woman

Advanced Eyebrow Shaping Techniques

  • You can lift an experienced eye with strategic eyebrow shaping! With an experienced eye, the lid has a tendency to be heavy. Extending the brow down to the “D” line can drag the lid down and make the eyes look tired. Instead, try feathering the brow upward and out from the arch to just above the outer corner of the eye (E). Please keep it natural, we don’t want to create wings here!
  • To minimize the curve of a round face, direct the outer third of the brow towards the top of the ear.
  • If the face is square, direct it toward the middle of the ear. This helps balance the face.
  • If the face is long, keep the brow more straight across, directing it above the ear.
  • An oval face already looks balanced, but to enhance this harmony, you can direct the outer third towards the earlobe.

Advanced Eyebrow Shaping Techniques

Eyebrow Makeup

No matter how full and perhaps even unruly your eyebrows are (hello!), a little eyebrow makeup works wonders for your look.

  • At the very least groom them. Every morning when you do your makeup, run a Deluxe Spoolie Brush through them (it works much better than an old toothbrush, believe me, I have tried them both).
  • A bit of eyebrow wax will hold them in place beautifully.
  • Most brows have some thin places that need to be filled in. Try the brow powders in our GreatShape Eyebrow Kit, any appropriate shade of PurePressed Eye Shadow or your shade in our Retractable Brow Pencils. Comb the brows down and apply the color directly to the sparse patches on the skin. If the brow needs lengthening, apply the color with light feathery strokes.
  • Brows can be colored and held in place in one step with PureBrow Brow Gels. Lightly stroke the wand into the hairs, using a little at a time. Smooth with your Deluxe Spoolie Brush.
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Pick Your Brow Filler

brunette greatshape eyebrow kit

GreatShape Eyebrow Kit

brunette purebrow brow gel

PureBrow Brow Gel

brunette retractable brow pencil

Retractable Brow Pencil

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Pro Brow Tips

  • If you want to preview a new brow look before you commit to plucking, use White or Taupe Eye Pencil (depending on your skin tone) to color over the places you intend to pluck out.
  • Beware of over plucking, as too-thin brows can actually age you (gasp)!
  • Nobody’s eyebrows are totally symmetrical. Be careful of using stencils, as they can make your brows look unnatural.
  • The hair and brow color should match pretty closely. PureBrow Gels can change the color of your brows if you want. When my blonde sister goes very strawberry, she reaches for Auburn; or try the Bitty Brow Kit in Blonde.
  • For silver-haired lovelies, try Longest Lash Thickening and Lengthening Mascara in Slate Grey on your brows. Or if you prefer powder, try Slate Brown PurePressed Eye Shadow.

Now that you’re done with your eyebrows, learn how to flawlessly apply eyeshadow.

So tell me, please! How important is brow maintenance to you? Do you DIY or do you have them shaped professionally? Do you wear eyebrow makeup? Pencil or powder?

  1. Great information, Angelica! Thanks so much for making it simple for all of us to have great brows. I always tell my clients it’s like having an instant mini “face lift”…love that with my experienced eyes! Your eyebrows frame your eyes and draw attention upward beautifully. I get mine professionally waxed and then groom them every day with my favorite jane iredale makeup products…my Deluxe Spoolie and Blonde Bitty Brow Kit!

  2. Daily I use the Super-Shape Me Eyebroe Kit–Brunette. The best ever for filling in brows. Will never leave home without using it if I don’t do any thing else.    Genius Jane!    Many thanks to you (again),    Tina M. Arnone, R.N., BSN, Aesthetician    House Of Elan’ Med Spa, KC, MO.    (816) 289-2432    PS; Tomorrow attending the Jane Iredale University Seminar in Kansas City…Eyebrow sahping and false eyelash application. Can’t wait.

  3. As an aesthetician having well groomed brows is a must for me. I maintain mine mostly on my own with the occasional help from a fellow aesthetician. I use Cappuccino Pure Pressed Shadow to fill in my brows but I have my Blonde brow kit on order.    =)

  4. I find this article interesting on eye brows. I use to arch my eye brows not any more because it was hard to make them even. Now I just let them grow out and keep them looking neat and groomed with a eye brow pencil and that seems to work for me. Since I see the above chart on how to arch your eye brows I am seriously thinking about giving it a try. Thanks a lot for the how to do chart for arching eye brows.

  5. Hi Ashley,    That’s great that you want to be a makeup artist! My advice is to experiment and play with makeup as much as possible. You can always wash it off if it looks bad. It is important to use high quality makeup so you don’t irritate your skin or your models’. Keep reading makeup blogs and also subscribe to some YouTube makeup gurus, like Michelle Phan or Xteener. We also have a makeup channel on YouTube:     Good luck and please post some of your looks on our Facebook page (oh yes, we also post lots of looks there).

  6. Hi Linda,    Dark, matte shades help things to recede, while shimmery, light shades make things come forward. So I would recommend using a matte, medium shade on the lid, with a darker matte shade at the outer third. Avoid over-emphasizing the crease, as this will only make the lid look more prominent. Just extend the medium lid shade up into the crease. Highlight the inner corners of the eye.     Lining all the way around the eyes makes eyes look smaller, so only line the outer third of upper and lower lashes. You can extend the liner out past the outer corner just a bit, to lengthen the eye. Try highlighter to line the inner third to further open up the eyes. Plenty of mascara will make eyes pop, experiment with using it on top lashes only to see if you like this better.    Good luck and let us know how it goes! Please share any tips of your own, here or on

  7. Hi Steph!  I’m so glad it is helpful. We will try to include more diagrams like this.  Cheers!

  8. Oh no, over plucked is never fun to have to deal with. The biggest suggestion I have is to please be patient as they grow back in and resist the urge to pluck.     In the mean time, using the Bitty Brow Kit you can fill in and extend your brow. It is a powder and comes with a little spoolie, 2 angle brushes and a gel to keep your brows in place. With the spoolie brush comb out your brow. Then following the natural pattern of your brow, using the powder and one of the angle brushes, fill in the outer part at the middle and feather it. You do not want this to be too noticeable, so only extend your brow a little bit. Depending on how over plucked your brows are this may not completely solve the problem, but it will be better, and will hopefully give you patience as your brows grow back in :). Good luck!  Posted @ Wednesday, September 07, 2011 2:15 PM

  9. Hello Angelica,
    I really like your blog and the pictures your put on there as well…I recently written a blog about how to shape your brows the right way…you can check it out at Also leave a comment, I really like to get people opinions/feedback…
    Thank you

    1. Hi Sheri,
      Thanks for your comment, that’s super sweet. I checked out your blog and I love it! You did such a great job of describing different face shapes (always confusing). Hopping over there to comment.

  10. I have eyebrows that are not full enough. To me it looks like I don’t have enough eyebrow hair. How would I color them and still make them look natural. They are so sparse that I can see the eyebrow makeup on my skin, and I want them to look natural. By the way, this is a great article. Thanks!

  11. this is the best thing ive read all year! im so happy to have stumbled over this on the internet. this will revolutionize how i groom my brows and my look from now on. I will be 25 this august, and have struggled with my brows forever! i dont like getting them proffessionally done cuz i am never happy with the way it comes out. if you want it done right you do it yourself right? though im no professional, i prefer the way i groom to how others groom me cuz i have left salons multiple times with uneven brows.

    1. Hi there, We’re glad you stumbled upon this as well, leaving the salon with uneven brows is no fun! Let us know how you like this technique after you have tried it and thanks for stopping by :).

  12. I love this!!! Im so glad i found this blog… i have no idea how tofix my overplucked eyebrows!!!!! I have been doing it wrong for too long… i didnt know there was a right way!!!! :(I fill try filling them in until the overplucked gaps grow back in…gasp… sigh

  13. Hi Angelica,
    I found this article super helpful! Thank you for all the fantastic advice!

    I would just like to know one thing, in the (Advanced Techniques) paragraph, did the word “experienced” refer to ability, or age?

    1. Hi Cynthia,

      Thanks for your sweet comments! Angelica was referring to age when she used the word “experienced” :).

  14. Hi everyone!
    I like Angelica’s advices. I use that technique every time I do eyebrows, along with a natural look and hair strokes. I sometimes work for women with poor eye-sight, Parkinson’s, or simply clients who don’t have the time to apply make-up and want or need to be ready 24/7.
    I have been doing permanent make-up for more than 10 years, and I use the measurement as guide. Many women have half eyebrows, wish to have them full, or have a scar crossing their eyebrows and want to diminish it, I love my job.

  15. I definitely just posted this to Facebook because THIS is how you’re supposed to do it. Then, when I read the description in Facebook saw “Angelica,” and thought OMG, I’M ANGELICA TOO!!! So I had to say we’re winners. Definitely <3

  16. This is a fantastic tutorial. May I please have permission to save the images for personal use? I wanted to print them out and small and laminate them to carry in my cosmetic bag. Thanks!

  17. In high school I tried to take my eyebrow care into my own hands, and as a result I just got done regrowing my eyebrows. That’s why I really appreciate your tip about not over plucking your brows because too-thin brows can actually age you. I think I’d like to talk to a professional about shaping them so that I don’t have to go through the pain of growing them out again over the course of a few years.

  18. Thanks for this I love this this, during my wedding my makeup artist did this kind of Technics and i love to read this now 🙂

    Keep it up

  19. Thanks for the advice on how to raise your eyebrows a tad bit more. I had no idea that raising your eyebrows takes so much time and there are so many outside factors that affect where you should put them. My little sister wants to be a beautician and so this information would be perfect for her! Thanks again!

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