Glossary

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

24-Karat Gold Leaf: A food-grade gold that can be used anywhere on the face, even the lips.

A

Algae Extract (Algae Extract 2): Another potent sea mineral extract which nourishes, soothes and protects all skins, even mature and sensitive skin. It may help to increase the skin’s moisture content while acting as an anti-inflammatory, effectively improving the quality of sensitive skin. Helps protect against the effects of UV radiation and helps enable UV-damaged cells to be eliminated more effectively.It inhibits burn cell growth, reducing the inflammation from sunburn.

Algae Extract:  A proprietary blend of high-tech sea minerals that condition and protect brow hairs, making them healthier, smoother and more manageable. These extracts also condition and protect lashes to reduce splitting and breaking.

Algae: A thickener and antioxidant.

Aloe Leaf Extract: (First Aid Plant) A compound expressed from the leaf of the aloe plant. There are more than 300 species. Used medicinally for more than three thousand years. It is referred to in the Bible. Used for its softening benefits in cosmetics. Hydrating and soothing. The specifically formulated and purified aloe vera in our gel is less sensitizing than raw gel.

Aqua: Deionized water.

Arbutin: A new type of skin de-pigmentation and whitening agent. Arbutin protects the skin against damage caused by free radicals and inhibits the formation of the melanin pigment by inhibiting Tyrosinase activity. It is also anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial. As far back as the 18th century, Arbutin was used in medical areas for the latter purposes. Arbutin is well tolerated by the skin, does not cause irritation, and has no known toxicity or side effects. Arbutin is extracted from the bearberry plant. Bearberry, from the botanical family Ericacae, grows in Europe, northern temperate Asia, and North America. The part of the plant traditionally used for extraction is the leaves.

Ascorbyl Palmitate: A salt of ascorbic acid used as a preservative and antioxidant.

Avocado Oil: High in fat, Vitamin A and C. Used in folk medicine as an aphrodisiac.

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B

Beeswax:  A natural substance obtained from the honeycomb. Can be yellow or white. It has powerful anti-microbial properties. Vegans will want to avoid products with beeswax.

Bisabolol: A myrrh-type gum resin obtained from African trees. It reduces sensitivity and inflammation. It is also soothing and has vaso-constrictive properties. Also used as a preservative.

Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2: A mixture of organic vegetable oils.

Bismuth Oxychloride: Also known as “synthetic pearl,” it occurs in the earth’s crust. Used as an opacifier, it enhances coverage and gives a silky glide on application. None of our products contain Bismuth Oxychloride.

Borage Seed Oil: An herbal extract with emollient properties. Rich in stores of a therapeutic fat called gamma linolenic acid (GLA), an omega-6 fatty acid. An anti-inflammatory which may help to clear acne and rosacea.

Boron Nitride: A raw ingredient originally used in the ceramics industry, it is now also produced to cosmetics grade. It is composed of flat, hexagonal, plate-like crystals that can freely slide over one another. Because of this composition, this white powder is added to cosmetics to enable a silky glide in application, and provides excellent adhesion and soft focus properties.

Buckwheat Seed Extract: Obtained from the grains of Polygonum fagophyrum. It is effective in reducing puffiness around the eyes.

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C

Calcium Sulfate: A fine odorless, tasteless mineral powder used as a coloring and firming ingredient.

Calendula (Marigold): Has soothing, antiseptic, anti-itching and anti-inflammatory properties. Effective for oily and/or delicate skin as well as for acne. Extract obtained from the calendula blossom.

Candelilla Wax:  An herbal wax obtained from various Euphorbiaceae species. Used in cream to powder formulations to give them body.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride: An oily mixture derived from coconut oil. Used extensively as a vehicle for pigment dispersion.

Carbomer: A thick, stable emulsion.

Carmine: A crimson pigment derived from the Mexican and Central American species of beetle, which feeds on cacti. (The coloring has no known toxicity and was permanently listed for use in food by the FDA in 1977.) The brilliant red color exists only if the beetles die a natural death and this they do by the hundreds of thousands once they have mated. They are then vacuumed off the cacti and sent for extraction. Vegans and those practicing Kosher will want to avoid this.

Carnauba Wax: Exuded by the leaves of a Brazilian tree to conserve its moisture. Called the tree of life by the natives because of the use they make of its various products.

Castor Seed Oil: Expressed from the beans of the castor-oil plant. Soothing to the skin.

Cellulose: The primary fiber component of plants. Used in cosmetics as a thickening agent and to bind other ingredients together.

Cetyl Alcohol: A solid fatty alcohol used as an emollient and emulsifier. It also functions as a thickener and carrying agent for other ingredients.

Cetyl Stearate: A natural emollient. Ours is vegetable-sourced.

Chamomile Extract: Anti-inflammatory and antiseptic. Studies have shown that it reduces dryness, itching, redness and sensitivity in irritated and inflamed skin. Extract obtained from the flower heads.

Chromium Oxide Greens: Oxides of chromium occurring in the earth’s crust. Some risk of allergic reactions. Used in eye shadows Emerald, Taupe, Khaki Kraze, Seafoam, Nighttime eye shadow kit (Khaki), Bling eye shadow kit (Seagreen) and Jade (Artists’ Eyes); Green Silk eye gloss; Navy lengthening mascara; Auburn and Brunette brow gel; 24-Karat Green shimmer powder; cream to powder eyeliners Black/Brown Plus (copper quarter) and Jewel Box (green quarter); and Blonde, Auburn and Brunette brow kits.

Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine: An anti-static ingredient in hair and skin care products.

Cocoa Extract: From the kernels of ripe seeds of the Theobroma Cacao plant. Used as a flavoring.

Coconut Oil: A natural emollient and moisturizer.

Coenzyme Q10: A naturally occurring metabolic enzyme found in every living cell of the body. Used daily, CoQ10 helps prevent and reverse the aging process. It stimulates the vital energy necessary for skin cells to heal, protect and rejuvenate themselves. Tests show that CoQ10 decreases DNA damage up to 70%. Significantly maintains the dermal matrix. Reduces wrinkle depth by 27%. Increases epidermal turnover and cellular renewal. Acts as a powerful antioxidant.

Corallina Officinalis Extract: Seaweed extracts harvested from some of the richest seabeds. Re-mineralizes the skin.

Cranberry Fruit Extract: A natural antioxidant which gives a fresh natural flavor and also keeps the natural oils in the lip plumper fresh.

Cucumber Fruit Extract: A soothing agent.

Cyclomethicone: Derived from silica. Used as an emollient and for glide. (See Dimethicone.)

Cyclopentasiloxane: Silicone emollient.

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D

Decyl Glucoside: Helps to sooth irritated skin.

Dimethicone: Made from sand (silica) that is a combination of minerals but largely comprised of quartz. This state-of-the-art ingredient replaces the need for oils and is the coating on our micronized titanium dioxide. Dimethicone aids spreading, is transfer resistant and imparts a remarkable smoothness and creaminess to the overall product. It also improves coverage without adding heaviness. And, it is non-comedogenic and highly water repellent. It gives micronized titanium dioxide the highest light refractive ability of any titanium. This outstanding ingredient is one of the driving forces behind the creative evolution of color cosmetics.

In a recent medical article titled “Effective Sunscreen Ingredients and Cutaneous Irritation in Patients with Rosacea,” Dr. Nichols and colleagues found that the addition of silicon-based protectants (dimethicone and cyclomethicone) into sunscreens greatly reduced facial irritation that rosacea sufferers experienced to these products. The physicians performed this study because in their medical experience patients with rosacea are particularly susceptible to irritation caused by sunscreen ingredients. The results of the study demonstrate that in addition to their protective actions, dimethicone and cyclomethicone were found to have excellent moisturizing actions.

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E

Ethyl Macadamiate: An ester of Macadamia oil, used as an emollient.

Ethylhexyl Palmitate: An emollient from palm oil.

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F

Flavor: Vanilla

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G

Ginger Root Oil: Used for flavor.

Glycerin: Derived from vegetable oil. Used as a solvent.

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate: An ester of glycerin used as a thickener.

Glyceryl Stearate: Derived from glycerin. Used as an emulsifier and a humectant.

Glycol Stearate: Comes from vegetable glycerin and is used as a humectant.

Grape Seed Extract: An extract used for its healing, soothing, antioxidant properties.

Grapefruit Peel Oil and Grapefruit Seed Extract: Used as an antibacterial and natural preservative.

Green Tea Leaf Extract: Recently discovered to have many nutritional and healthful qualities. It contains 20 times the antioxidant effect of Vitamin E and increases the effect of sunscreens. High in methylxanthines, which are believed (by the National Cancer Institute) to prevent skin cancer. Green tea also helps prevent irritation of the skin.

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H

Hyaluronic Acid: A water-binding agent.

Hydrated Silica: Made from sand. Can hold seven times its molecular weight and so is excellent in absorbing excess oil.

Hydrogenated Castor Oil: Expressed from the beans of the castor-oil plant.  Soothing to the skin. In combination with Castor Seed Oil, Beeswax and Carnauba Wax, forms a natural alternative to the petroleum-based ingredients used in conventional cosmetics.

Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil: Oil extracted from the beanlike seeds of the desert shrub Simmondsia chinensis. It has been used for many years by Mexican and American Indians for hair and skin care. Hydrogenation is the process of adding hydrogen gas under high pressure to make liquid oils solid. This is the process used to manufacture margarine and shortening.

Hydrolyzed Algae Extract: An oil-free conditioner that controls static and helps repair natural hair and bristle brushes. Hydrolysis means turned partly to water.

Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters: Hydrolysis means turned partly to water.

Hydrolyzed Soy Protein: Cleanses, protects and strengthens.

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein: Hydrolysis means turned partly into water.

Hydroxyethylcellulose: A cellulose gum.

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I

Iron Oxides: Iron oxide is iron combined with oxygen and can be found in nature or produced synthetically. It varies in color from red to brown, black to orange or yellow depending on the degree of water and the purity.

Isopropyl Jojobate: Derived from natural jojoba oil and used for its soothing and moisturizing skin care properties. A bonding of two Jojoba esters designed to enhance moisture retention. Jojoba comes closest to the skin’s actual sebum.

Isostearyl Neopentanoate: An emollient.

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J

Jojoba Esters: Oil extracted from the beanlike seeds of the desert shrub Simmondsia chinensis. It has been used for many years by Mexican and American Indians for hair and skin care. Of any oil, it most closely resembles the skin’s natural sebum. It gives some protection against UV rays. An ester is a molecule of a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol.

Jojoba Seed Oil: Oil extracted from the beanlike seeds of the desert shrub Simmondsia chinensis. It has been used for many years by Mexican and American Indians for hair and skin care. Of any oil, it most closely resembles the skin’s natural sebum. It gives some protection against UV rays.

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K

Kaolin: Also known as China Clay. Aids in covering ability and in absorbing excess oil secreted by the skin.

Kelp Extract: An oil balancer.

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L

Lemon Peel Oil: An oil expressed from the fresh rind and peel of lemons. Used for flavoring, it also has cleansing and decongestant properties. It is refreshing and purifying to the skin, and is a natural mood lifter. In Aromatherapy for Vibrant Health and Beauty, author Roberta Wilson says that lemon oil “encourages clarity, concentration and recall. It can calm or prevent emotional outbursts. It fights depression, eases fear, strengthens resolve and assists in communication and decision-making”.

Licorice Extract: Licorice Extract is an effective natural lightener now being widely used. It also has anti-inflammatory and anti-allergy properties.

Lilac Extract: Used for fragrance.

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M

Macadamia Seed Oil: An emollient derived from the seed of a small evergreen tree native to coastal rainforests of central east Australia (New South Wales and Queensland) and commercially grown in Hawaii and France. Macadamia nut oil is similar to sebum, the oil naturally produced by human skin to protect itself. It contains magnesium and thiamin, absorbs well into the skin, and is highly emollient and soothing.

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C): A stable derivative of ascorbic acid. Has been shown to suppress melanin formation. Has a protective effect against skin damage by UVB radiation. A good antioxidant and anti-inflammatory that can be used post-exfoliation, as it frequently has a less acidic pH than water-based Vitamin C.

Manganese Violet: A coloring agent.

Mango Seed Oil: Oil extracted from the fruit of a tropical evergreen tree.

Meadowfoam Seed Oil: Expressed from the seeds of the Meadowfoam plant.

Mica: Found in nature in crystallized, thin elastic sheets that can be separated easily. They vary in color from pale green, brown, or black to colorless. It can be shiny or dull. We use mica for its gliding properties in a form that does not cause shine.

Montmorillonite: A very soft phyllosilicate mineral that typically forms in microscopic crystals, forming a clay. Used as a thickener and emulsifier and to suspend makeup pigments. Over 200 cultures have used this clay for medicinal purposes, including the Ancient Egyptians, the Essenes, the pre-Aztec Amargosians, and other natives of Mexico, South America and North America.

Myrrh Extract: Healing and analgesic properties. One of the gifts of the Magi.

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O

Octyldodecanol: An emulsifier, opacifying ingredient and emollient.

Oleic Acid: Typically obtained from various animal and vegetable fats and oils, our Oleic Acid is vegetable sourced.

Olive Leaf Extract: An antioxidant and natural preservative.

Ozokerite: A naturally occurring wax-like mineral; a mixture of hydrocarbons. An emulsifier and thickening agent.

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P

Palm Oil: A natural emollient and moisturizer.

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide: The natural tripeptide Gly-His-Lys. This tripeptide has the biological property of stimulating the neosynthesis of collagen and glycosaminoglycans. In a clinical trial of over 30 days, volunteers reported that it increased lip hydration, reduced lip furrows and enhanced the volume of the lips.

Panthenol: Vitamin B Complex Factor. Used to condition hair. It is good for human tissues.

PEG-100 Stearate: An emulsifying agent.

Peppermint Leaf Extract: A flavoring.

Phenoxyethanol: A preservative.

Phospholipids: A complex fat substance found in living cells. They bind water and hold it in its place.

Phytonadione (Vitamin K): Rosacea specialist, Dr. Geoffrey Nase, has said: "Vitamin K has been the plastic surgeons' magical secret weapon for post-surgery bruising (damaged blood vessels). It has been shown to strengthen blood vessels (arterioles, capillaries and venules) in scientific studies. Small concentrations of Vitamin K added to your daily routine may have a very positive effect on under eye bags (swelling), under eye bluish color (dilated venules returning de-oxygenated blood) and red dilated arterioles that have not been structurally damaged."

Pine Bark Extract: 85%-95% proathocyanidins and flavonoids extracted from the French Maritime pine tree bark (Pinus pinaster). It is a potent free radical scavenger and preservative. Its antioxidant capabilities are 50 times greater than Vitamin E and 20 times greater than Vitamin C. Its molecular structure is much smaller than that of Vitamin E and C, and, therefore, it penetrates more readily through the epidermis into the dermis. It is water-soluble and most importantly it is safe. We have run no tests on the benefit of the antioxidants in our formulas to the skin, but there are a number of clinical reports attesting to its topical value as a free radical scavenger and as a preventative against UVB radiation damage.

Plankton Extract (Algae Extract 1, an Omega 3 acid): A high tech extract of sea minerals proven to nourish the skin, it enhances moisture retention beneficial for all skin types, but is especially beneficial for dry and mature skin. A documented anti-inflammatory which soothes sensitive skin. In addition to calming, it also encourages rebuilding of the skin’s lipid film barrier. This increases effective protection against moisture loss, so sensitive skin is not only protected, but actually improves.

Polyethylene: A polymer of ethylene. Low moisture absorption and good insulating properties.

Pomegranate Extract: A potent natural antioxidant containing ellagic acid, which protects skin cells from the aging effects of free radical damage. It also boosts sunscreen protection and acts as a natural preservative.

Potassium Sorbate: A preservative primarily against mold and yeast. Nontoxic.

PVP: Plastic resin resembling albumin. Used for soft body and hold. (Often used in food and blood as an expander.)

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R

Red 30 Lake: Natural dye from Indigo bonded to calcium.

Red 7 Lake: Tree resin bonded to calcium.

Rice Starch: Made from finely pulverized rice grains. It is a demulcent (soother) and emollient, and forms a soothing, protective film when applied.

Rosemary Leaf Extract: Derived from the flowering evergreen. It contains antioxidants and has anti-inflammatory properties.

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S

SD Alcohol 39-C: An antibacterial and antiseptic which evaporates quickly. Made by the fermentation of starch, sugar and other carbohydrates.

Seaweeds (Algin, Agar, Carrageenan): Have anti-inflammatory capabilities in addition to being nourishing and moisturizing to the skin. People who are allergic to shellfish should avoid these ingredients.

Shea Butter: A natural fat obtained from the fruit of the karite tree.

Silica: An absorbent powder and thickening agent.

Silicone Powder: Used for texture.

Sodium PCA: An essential amino acid and moisturizer. Reaches areas of the skin where the skin’s own sodium PCA cannot.

Sorbitan Isostearate: A humectant which gives a velvety feel to the skin.

Soybean Oil: A natural moisturizer and antioxidant.

Squalane: A natural moisturizing agent.

Stearic Acid: Derived from butter acids, cascarilla bark and other oils. Used as a softener.

Sunflower Seed Oil: Obtained by milling the seeds of large sunflowers. Contains large amounts of Vitamin E.

Superoxide Dismutase: A copper-containing protein enzyme that decomposes free radicals.

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T

Tangerine Extract: A natural extract from the peels of ripe tangerines, it is used to calm and feed the skin.

Tea Tree Extract: A natural antiseptic.

Titanium Dioxide: Derived from Titanium, which is extracted from the minerals such as rutile and Ilmenite. It gives the greatest covering and tinting power of any white pigment and it is listed in the FDA monograph as one of the purest and most effective active ingredients for sun protection.

Tocopherol: Vitamin E. A topical antioxidant and natural preservative with many known skin benefits. We use natural Vitamin E because there is very little incidence of allergic reaction to it.

Tribehenin: An ester of glycerin and behenic acid, a fatty acid found in seed fats. Used as an opacifier, emollient and lubricant.

Triisostearyl Citrate: A jelly derived from citric acid which gives texture and glide; our natural alternative to the petroleum-based ingredients traditionally used in other lipsticks and balms.

Turbinado Sugar: Organic brown sugar crystals, which give a gentle exfoliation.

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U

Ultramarines: Made from powdering the mineral lapis lazuli. It is a vivid blue.

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V

Vanilla Extract (and) Sweet Almond Extract: A proprietary blend of essential oils of vanilla and sweet almond, which serve as a uniquely enhanced, all-natural preservative.

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W

Wheat Germ Glycerides: High in Vitamin E, a potent antioxidant, used as a texturizer and emollient.

Wheat Starch: A bonding of wheat starch, a product of the cereal grain used for its emollient and soothing properties.

White Tea Leaf Extract: Contains concentrated antioxidant properties.

Willow Bark Extract: Outstanding anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties. It is one of the few ingredients that is found in nature and is also an OTC. A natural source of salicins and beta-hydroxyacids which are especially helpful for acneic skin.

Witch Hazel Extract: A natural astringent which evaporates quickly.

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X

Xanthan Gum: Also called corn sugar gum. Used as a thickener, emulsifier and stabilizer.

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Y

Ylang Ylang Flower Extract: Infusion of ylang ylang essential oil. Ylang Ylang is a sebum balancer and a supposed aphrodisiac.

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Z

Zinc Oxide: Also known as Flowers of Zinc, is derived from the mineral sphalerite which occurs in limestone and dolomites. Zinc is believed to encourage healing of skin disorders. It is insoluble in water. In an ointment it is used as an antiseptic and as a protection against skin diseases.

Zinc Stearate: Zinc Soap (a mixture of zinc salts). Widely used in cosmetics because it contributes to adhesive properties.

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